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Saturday, May 14, 2022

African Adventure 2022: Travel to Lake Mutanda & Chameleon Hill Lodge


Boy, was that alarm brutal! Two nights of sub-5 hours of sleep was a bit rough. We hustled to get ready and check out of the lodge. Our driver was waiting for us when we got to reception at 5:40am. We did not have to wait long for our packed breakfast was ready and we were headed back to the airport.

Our flight from Entebbe to Kisoro was a small, 12-seat prop plane. Similar to the international flight the day before, this plane was operating on a loop. Our stop, Kisoro, was the fourth stop, so we got to experience our pilots, Roman & Albert, complete take-offs and landings on asphalt, grass, dirt/gravel, and a combination. They kept us informed with what was happening and let us get out at the first stop to use the washroom as that was our longest leg at close to an hour.




The views on the flight were incredible and varied throughout. That certainly help make up for the size, since my head almost hit the top of the plane while seated!



Before too long, we landed at Kisoro, where our driver guide for our time at Chameleon Hill Lodge, Michael, met us. We used the facilities and then jumped in the jeep to make the journey from Kisoro Airport to Chameleon Hill Lodge. The drive took the better part of an hour with most over some pretty bumpy dirt tracks. Michael explained that road works happen during two times of the year: beginning of rainy season and end of rainy season. It felt similar to Wisconsin's winter and construction seasons.


On our way out of town, Kisoro was alive with kids playing and people walking to and from church. It was cool to get a brief glimpse into normal life in the town. As we got further away from the city centre, the road conditions worsened to effectively a single lane for both directions of traffic due to the ravines cut through the dirt road. We also saw stack after stack of handmade mud bricks in various stages of processing. Most of the people in this area made their own bricks to use when building their home. Pretty cool to witness.


Another amazing sight to witness on the drive were the people, primarily women, carrying large loads along the dirt roads by foot. Many of the homes along the ridge do not have running water or electricity, this is a daily task to walk to the lake to fetch water among other things. Given we are at ~6,000ft, they are some seriously tough people.

We finally made it to Chameleon Hill Lodge! We were greeted by Agnes and Charles upon our arrival. Agnes brought us wet towels to clean our hands and face as well as water and juice. It was nice to sit on the lanai, overlooking Lake Mutanda and finally start to relax. We made it!




After a short briefing to learn more about what the lodge had to offer, we went down to our cottage to get settled and relax until lunch at 12:30pm. It felt nice to unpack the bags a bit and sit on our patio overlooking the lake to read. I read a brief history of the place and Uganda before examining the activity menu to see if we wanted to do anything in the afternoon. Kari used this downtime to wash some of her clothes to try to reduce the bug spray smell.



Before long, it was time to head back up to the lodge for lunch. They served a delicious three course meal: carrot & ginger soup with warm bread, roasted chicken with roast potatoes & veggies, and finished with fruit salad for dessert. It was pretty incredible. No sooner than we had finished our dessert did Agnes come over to get our request for dinner. We also asked if it would be possible to learn how to carve a gorilla later in the afternoon. Thankfully, the instructor was available later in the afternoon. While we waited, we ventured off on a walk down to the lake.



While intended to be easy, this turned out to be rather complex. First off, I *think* Charles meant to say to go through the gate on the right instead of the left. Not thinking going on a trail away from the lake seemed like the right call, we continued down along the cottages and asked a worker for help. He pointed us to the trail and we were off. That is when we hit issue number two: no signage and loads of different paths to go down. We picked one and ended up near a river with tall reeds and grasses. Thinking this couldn't be right, we went back up and tried a couple other trails to see if one would do the trick. Sure enough. We managed to stumble our way down to the lake and found the lodge's pontoon boat. We stood there in awe of the beauty until a few otters broke the water's surface, playing, before heading further out into the lake.


With our gorilla carving experience fast approaching, we made our way back to the lodge. Demas met us and took us to a shady spot to begin our carving lesson. Demas started off with something I had never really learned before. My uncle taught me how to woodcarve, but that was always from a sketch block. We took one of the small pieces of eucalyptus and started carving it down with a machete to make it roughly look like a gorilla. Once that was done, he gave us a shot at doing the same with a slightly bigger piece of wood. This was the one that we ultimately carved into what sort of looks like a gorilla. It was Kari's first time wood carving, and my first time solely using chisels with a mallet. In other words, it was pretty rough. Demas helped us throughout, which is largely why it looks decent. It needs a paint job, but we need it to dry completely first. Assuming we can agree on a color scheme, it will be painted when we get back to the UK.



After parting ways with Demas, we went back to the lodge to relax before dinner. We found Michael on the lanai and chatted with him about our upcoming day and life in the area. Agnes came out around 7pm to call us in for dinner. It was another delicious three course meal consisting of tomato & basil soup, pork chops with fried plantains, and caramelized fruit for dessert. Absolutely delicious!



Following dinner, we spent a little time on the lanai catching up on life in the outside world before heading to bed. Given the lack of sleep over the past couple nights, we were looking forward to an early bed time. After prepping for tomorrow's gorilla trek and getting ready for bed, we were under the covers by 9pm. It was glorious!

African Adventure 2022: Travel to Uganda


We awoke early (read: 3am) to get a quick shower and get ready to start the long travel day to Entebbe, Uganda from Bristol. We hired Arrow Cars to collect us at 3:45am to head to the airport to catch our 6am flight from Bristol to Amsterdam. Our driver arrived a few minutes early, so we set off slightly ahead of schedule. The Bristol Airport was surprisingly full of other holiday makers, scrambling to catch an EasyJet or Thomas Cook flight to somewhere warm and sunny or a place that offered skiing opportunities. Thankfully, not many appeared to be on KLM to Amsterdam, so we didn't have to wait long before we got in line to go through security.

With the world getting a little easier to navigate again, we will need to look at not getting to the airport quite as early. We managed to drop our bags and get through security in about 15min, which left us with about an hour until our gate was announced and boarding began. Oh well.

The flight to Amsterdam was uneventful like normal. Upon our arrival, we headed to the KLM Crown Lounge for some breakfast and to wait for our next flight to Entebbe to board.


The flight to Entebbe was a little delayed out of Amsterdam due to the flight arriving late. This was also the first flight I can remember taking that had two destinations: Kigali and Entebbe. Passengers for both destinations boarded the plane and we set off for Kigali first followed by Entebbe. In reality, this flight was really a loop: Amsterdam to Kigali to Entebbe to Amsterdam. The plane only fully emptied and reloaded in Amsterdam. Other than some technical issues with the on-board entertainment, it was a fairly uneventful flight. We watched a few movies and played some of the in-flight games.


It took about an hour in Kigali to unload everyone staying in Rwanda, clean the plane, and add the new passengers enroute to Entebbe or Amsterdam. It was a bit of a weird experience hanging out on the plane during that time. Once we were back in the air, it was a short hop to Entebbe.

Upon arrival in Entebbe, we made our way off the plane and found our escort to get through customs and the health checks. While I'm not sure we needed the escort, it was nice to help make sure we had everything ready for the right person. Once we had our bags, we met up with our driver to take us to the Boma Lodge for our short night of sleep.


Waiting for us at the Boma Lodge was a doctor to collect samples for our COVID test to get into Tanzania next week. Then, our driver gave us a briefing on what to expect for our time in Uganda before leaving us for the night. We were a little sad we were only going to get to spend ~6 hours in the lodge with most of that asleep. It looked lovely and would likely be worth more time to enjoy. After getting settled in the room, we passed out, knowing our 5am wake-up was going to come quickly!

Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Vacate to Venice 2019 - Travel Back to Bristol

The alarms went off at 4:30 am, signalling an end to our time in Venice. We quickly got ready and began our 20 minute walk to meet the pre-arranged cab. While we probably could have counted on finding one in the Piazzale Roma, it added peace of mind knowing one would be waiting for us.

Walking through Venice in the early morning hour is quite different than other times. Most places are boarded up with minimal light to guide us. It certainly added an eerie quality to our walk.

Our driver found us as we walked into the Piazzale Roma and quickly whisked us off to the airport. Security was quick and easy. Before we knew it, we were on the plane back to Bristol. What a wonderful way to spend a weekend!


Vacate to Venice 2019 - Exploring San Marco & San Polo

Without the rush to catch a vaporetto to go to a more distant island, we awoke more slowly, enjoying a nice breakfast of fruit we picked up at the market the night before. On our walk to San Marco Basilica, we stopped for some croissants to supplement our fruit breakfast. While Kari preferred the warmth of the croissants from the day prior, I felt these croissants were better quality, a little lighter and fluffier. I also had a hot chocolate. Throughout Venice, we had seen these hot chocolate machines constantly turning liquid chocolate. What a better way to start a brisk morning walking around Venice than with a croissant and a hot chocolate. It was delicious!


Once we arrived at San Marco Basilica, we left our bags and began the climb to the museum above the church. As beautiful and grand as the exterior was, the interior was even more beautiful. The walls and ceilings were adorned with scenes from the Bible and church history in mosaic. Around each image was gold leaf mosaic tiles to serve as a consistent background for the ceiling. Absolutely stunning! Unfortunately, they requested no photos, so we only snagged a couple to help remember for ourselves.




Walking through the museum was like walking through the history of the church. We saw various pieces going through restoration and some of the techniques used to preserve the Basilica for years to come. We also saw some of the pieces that started to become too damaged in their prior place to remain, such as the Horses of Saint Mark. These were replaced by replicas to maintain the look without losing the originals due to weathering over time.






In addition to seeing the beauty of the church from above, we could hear morning mass proceeding below us. It was quite lovely and cool to think this building is still being used for its original purpose many centuries later.

After descending back to ground level, we were given the opportunity to enter the main portion where mass was occurring to use the confessional or seek a blessing. Kari and I, being not catholic, did not feel comfortable spoiling the sanctity of the space and left. We headed off to collect our belongings and continue our tour of Piazza San Marco.


Our next stop was the Doge's Palace, or Palazzo Ducale. Similar to San Marco Basilica, a portion was turned into a large museum to show the history of the culture. In addition to serving as the residence for the doge, or political leader for the Venetian people, it was also the home for the legislative and judicial branches of their government. With the former government being a republic similar to our own, it had three branches: executive, legislative, and judicial. It is cool to see one of the likely examples/influences to our founding fathers when forming our government.




As we wandered through various halls and rooms, we were struck by the beauty and ornate decorations. Many of the walls and ceilings were covered with paintings and carvings or sculptures. It was spectacular. The final stop in our tour was across the Bridge of Sighs and into the new prison. Named the Bridge of Sighs due to the thought prisoners would sigh as they crossed, glimpsing freedom one last time before entering the dark, damp prison. It was an interesting view to see through the small windows out at San Giorgio's, watching gondolas pass below us on the canal.












Now, we have been touring museums for a few hours building a healthy appetite. We opted to try one of the recommendations from Lauren and Jesse, Dal Moro's, a grab and go pasta place. I had spaghetti with bolognese sauce, chicken, and parmesan cheese. Kari had spaghetti with black fish sauce and parmesan cheese. The food was hot and delicious, just what we needed after spending a few hours roaming the cool drafty halls of the Doge's Palace.


Following lunch, we wandered over to Suso's for our first gelato of the day; another recommendation from Lauren and Jesse. This was one of the better gelatos we had tried. The fruit di bosco was excellent and the lemon was pretty good.






With food in our bellies, we set off to find a gondola ride. We tried to find one on one of the small canals, hoping for a more peaceful and serene ride than solely on the Grand Canal. That turned out to be a good choice. While our gondolier took us on a loop that involved some time on the Grand Canal, we also spent a decent amount of time navigating the small canals, often alone. The gondola provided an interesting perspective; a glimpse of a time past. Many years ago, the gondola was a primary form of travel to get around Venice, with numbers nearing 10,000 gondolas. Today, there are about 500 remaning, primarily to give tourists an experience. The vaporettos are now the common way to get around Venice.

After our gondola ride, we felt we had done most, if not everything, we had come to Venice for, so we set off on a stroll to take the long way back to the apartment we rented to warm up and decide where to have dinner.



with it being our last night, we knew we wanted to stay in Venice's culinary wheelhouse; more pizza and gelato. We found a highly rated pizza place, Da Mamo's, and wandered over. Thankfully, we got there as they were opening and before the rush. By the time we left, it was packed. The pizza was excellent. While I preferred the crust of another place a bit more, the sauce and cheese were better here. It was certainly a good pizza to end our time with.



After dinner, we tried two more gelato places in our quest to find the best. We believe we have it narrowed down to Amorino's for lemon, strawberry, and raspberry; Grom's for lemon and fruit di bosco, and Suso's for chocolate and fruit di bosco. Unfortunately, Amorino's was closed when we were walking back to the apartment to finish our comparison. Regardless, all three were delicious and highly recommend.

With an early morning looming, we packed our things and went to bed early.